
Hola muchachos! This time out we’re spotlighting Central America’s most popular eco-destination, in honor of the mid-October release of my guidebook, Pauline Frommer’s Costa Rica (that’s not my drag name, she’s the very capable series editor). A lot of people complain the place is overrun, Americanized, and generally ruined—and in certain areas they have a point (I’m thinking especially some honky-tonky Pacific beach towns and some San José ’burbs). But there are still plenty of beautiful and fascinating areas packed into an area the size of Vermont plus New Hampshire, including remote spots like the Osa Peninsula with some deep rainforest and unspoiled coasts, plus pockets of social action rife with surfers, backpackers, New Agers, sprinkled with some upscale types. The Pacific coast down near Montezuma and Malpaís sports a similarly cool surfer-beach-bar scene, as do the Caribbean shores around Puerto Viejo, which throws in a rasta vibe (the locals are the great-great grandkids of Jamaicans). If on the other hand you prefer the bigger resort thang, the Guanacaste coast’s for you, from mom-and-pops under $100 a night up to the Four Seasons. And as you’ve probably heard, Costa Rica’s the gay-friendliest country in Central America, with a pretty fair selection of range of lodgings, nightspots, and other spots catering to non-hets.
Can’t cover the whole country at once, though, so I’m starting out with the capital (next up, the most gay-popular beach area: Manuel Antonio). Nicknamed “Chepe” by some — sorta like calling San Francisco “Frankie” — San José’s a sprawling metro area anchoring the country’s central highlands, with a climate cooler than on the coasts and in the rain forests. Most visitors either skip it altogether or spend just a night here en route to somewhere else — too bad, because it’s no great looker, true, but there’s enough culture and action to keep you happy for a couple of days (faves: the National Theater, the National Museum (set in an old fort), and museumloads of pre-Columbian gold, and jade).
My lodging picks: for cheap, a hop and a skip from a raft of hopping nightlife, Costa Rica Backpackers (Avenida 6 between Calles 21 & 23; 011.506/221.6191; $) delivers one of the best bangs for the buck, with nice private rooms as well as hostel beds, along with a pool, restaurant, and its own friendly social scene. For an inexpensive gay option, check out Kekoldi (Avenida 9 between Calles 5/7, 248.0804; in U.S. 786/221-9011; $), in the historic Barrio Amón nabe a couple of blocks above downtown; It’s a cute, Deco-style 10-roomer with a peacful little garden area. Just west of downtown in a nice neighborhood called Rohrmoser, the 20-room Colours Oasis (200 meters from end of Bulevar Rohrmoser; in U.S./Canada 866/517.4390; $) has more of the feel of a resort — pool, Jacuzzi, bar, even a mini-gym — for about $25 more per night than Kekoldi. For a centrally located, homey experience with a touch more privacy, rent an apartment like Casa Don Tomás (011.506/258-1847; $), a pretty stylish two-bedroom penthouse with extras like stereo, cable TV, DVD, Wi-Fi, maid service, and Jacuzzi. For something a little New Agey-feeling, out in a green neighborhood away from downtown called Santa Ana, my queerboy-lovin’ pal Vicki Skinner runs a cute guesthouse called The Fountains (Santa Ana-Escazú road, across from Plaza del Río mall; 866/673.5869 in the U.S.; $).
In the mid-range, if centrality is important, fags ‘n’ dykes will feel more than comfy at a big mid-range fave of mine, smack in the middle of downtown astride the main pedestrian Central Avenue, is the Hotel Presidente (Avenida Central @ Calle 7; 011.506/ 222.3022; $-$$), with 100 full-featured rooms, a bustling café, and a busy second-floor lounge and casino. And though it’s a little bit farther afield (at the western end of downtown), El Grano de Oro (Calle 30 between Av. 2/4; 011.506/255.3322; $$) is a recently expanded coffee-plantation-owner mansion with one of the best restaurants in town. The highest-end property convenient to downtown and nightlife is the Radisson Europa (Calle Central between Av. 3/15, 888/201.1718 in the U.S.; $$-$$$), now adding to its 107 rooms; there’s a nice pool and something of a social vibe going on in its bar and attached casino. If you don’t mind a bit of a cab ride, you’ll really love the Alta Hotel (Carretera Vieja Santa Ana, Alto de las Palomas, 888/388.2582 in the U.S., 011.506/282.4160; $$-$$$), a romantic dream of a 23-roomer in the nearby suburb of Santa Ana with another of the best restaurants in town, called La Luz.
Most Costa Rican food is nothing to write home about, but as it happens there’s some pretty good dining in San José (like the above mentioned La Luz and El Grano de Oro, at the higher end of the price scale). Great spots for a feed and some mingling include the Presidente Hotel’s News Café (Avenida Central @ Calle 7; 222.3022), on a corner with tables alongside downtown’s pedestrian main drag and a pretty good gringo-Latin mix (both eats and peeps). For something a little trendier and more gay-popular, Café Mundo (Calle 15 @ Av. 9; 222.6190) several blocks northeast of downtown, is a cross between a restaurant, art gallery, and bar, in a cute woodframe house. The food’s decent (not spectacular) but the vibe and setting definitely make it worth a stop by. Another gay fave with even better food is in nearby Barrio Escalante: gay-owned Olio (200 meters north of Bagelmans; 281.0541) whose tasteful décor is matched by tasty Spanish, Italian, and Latin dishes at reasonable prices.
When it comes to gay nightlife and “other,” it doesn’t get any better in Central America (and in fact, it ain’t bad for Latin America as a whole). There’s even a decent bath house here, called Hispalis (Avenida 2, across from National Museum; 256.9540); it can be hit or miss, though, and sometimes can seem more full of old gringos than young Ticos). Two downtown nightspots not to miss are Bochinche (Paseo de los Estudiantes; 221.0500), a split-level video bar that can get very packed on weekends, and the two-story La Avispa (Calle 1 between Av. 8/10; 223.5343), a big place with multiple bars which is holding up pretty well after a quarter century (of course, it’s had some work done—always helps). It also, by the way, has ladies-only nights twice a month (usually a Wednesday or a Friday). Possibly the biggest draw for the cute boys, though, is the former Déjà Vu, several blocks below downtown: Club Oh! (Calle 2 under the Clínica Bíblica; 248.1500, 248.1424) holds 2,000 and boasts a huge-ass sound system whose electronica and house will set you vibrating at cellular level.
Wherever you go, you’re likely to find that Ticos (which is what locals call themselves) are some of the friendliest people you’re likely to ever meet. You’re likely to come back with part of your amazing vacation experience including a few great new friends. It is, as the Ticos say — sometimes to the point of being irritating — pura vida! (awesome!). And don’t forget to pick up our Gay Spanish for Love + Hookups, which will fill you in on some of the slang specific to gay Costa Rica (like playo for “fag”)
Plenty of tour operators run gay-oriented tours to Costa Rica, such as locally based GayTours Costa Rica (011.506/777.1910), and in the U.S. Alyson Aventures (800/825.9766), and Venture Out (888/431.6789). Another, Gays In Costa Rica Tours (011.506/307.5141), is specifically aimed at folks interested in moving down there.
For more details, start at Visit Costa Rica, GayCostaRica.com, and the Gay & Lesbian Guide to Costa Rica.
Yours truly,
Dave