¡Hola, amics! This time I’m comin’ atcha – finally! – from a place I consider my second home: Spain’s most interesting, popular, and arguably most dynamic urb. Dating back to Roman times (you can get an eyeful of some of the walls and foundations from those days in the city museum), its sense of history starts with an amazingly atmospheric medieval Barri Gòtic (Gothic quarter), including the Tinell, a hall where Ferdinand and Isabella once lent an ear to Chris Columbus and his crazy-ass schemes. The architectural hit parade continues through the Renaissance and the elegant Parisian feel of the 19th-century Eixample (“ey-shahm-pluh”) area, but really hits the big time with early-20th-century Art Nouveau, especially the legendarily wacked-out visions of Antoni Gaudí with his melted-wax Sagrada Família church and wavily groovy Batllò townhouse and La Pedrera apartment building. And since shaking off the enforced snooze of Generalissimo Francisco Franco’s 36-year Catholic-fascist dictatorship, Barcelona’s become the belle of the design ball once again, with cutting-edge architecture springing up left and right (Ricard Bofill and Santiago Calatrava, take a bow).
You should know, BTW, that the main language in Barcelona and its surrounding provinces, called Catalonia (Catalunya), isn’t Spanish – it’s a related language, Catalan (català), and most locals are very serious about it and their culture, considering themselves a separate and ideally independent nationality (yes, we’re working on Gay Catalan for Love + Hookups). No worries, though: All Catalans also speak Spanish perfectly (yes you do, Jordi, so don’t bullshit me), and that fact plus all the immigrants from Latin America and the rest of Spain means Spanish is as useful as anywhere else in this country, so picking up a copy of The Gay Translator or Gay Spanish for Love + Hookups will stand you in mucho good stead.
Barcelona’s top don’t misses: Gaudì’s Sagrada Família and Casa Batllò; the Catalan Museum of Art with its Romanesque masterpieces; the Gothic cathedral (the cloister’s a phantastically photogenic gem); and leafy Les Rambles (aka Las Ramblas), a festive and sometimes cruisy downtown pedestrian boulevard lined with pet-selling kiosks and buskers known for dressing up in sometimes extravagantly crazy outfits for photo ops and spare change. You can also take in a cool view from the Columbus monument and see some great paintings at a local museum devoted to Pablo Picasso, who spent a buncha years here. I could go on…
…but I must of course not leave out the “Gayxample.” That’s the several square blocks of central BCN’s abovementioned Eixample nabe where you’ll find quite the nest of sodomitic subculture that’s become a real phenom in this very sophisticated, live-and-let-live city (helped too by the fact that Spain these days is possibly the planet’s most gay-positive country; the generalissimo’s rolling in his grave). Anchoring the Gayxample these days is the snazzy Axel Hotel (Carrer Aribau 33, 93-323-9393), the world’s first truly world-class design hotel run by fags for fags, including a rooftop pool – not exactly cheap, though, starting at 98 euros (currently US$153) in low season. There are quite a few less pricey and very central gay-stay options, too, such as Absolut Centro (Carrer Casanova 72), Agua Alegre (Carrer Roger de Llúria 47, 93-487-8032), and Barcelona City Centre Hostal (Carrer Tallers 30, 616-474-651) and Hostal Qué Tal (Carrer Mallorca 290, 93-459-2366). The beautious Beauty and the Beach (Passeig Taulat, 93-266-0562), meanwhile, is down near Playa Mar Bella, one of the two gay nude strands. There are plenty of apartment services, too, such as GoGayBCN.
And when it comes time for going out on the town, this town’s second to none. Start out at one of the Gayxample’s queer restaurants, like Castro (Casanova 85, 93-323-6784), dDivine (Carrer Balmes 24, 93-317-2248), and Miranda (Casanova 30, 93-453-5249), this last one complete with drag show – and BTW remember that everyone eats late – never before 10pm. Then ’round about midnight pop over for a nip at a bar like the venerable Punto BCN (Carrer Muntaner 63, 93-453-6123), the cooler Zeltas (Casanova 75), the Axell’s Sky Bar (93-323-9393) show-bar Dietrich (Carrer Consell de Cent 255, 93-451-7707), and the leather-lite New Chaps (Avinguda Diagonal 365, 93-215-5365). Then you’re finally ready to head to a boogie barn à la Arena (Balmes 32, 93-487-8342) and its several offshoots; the venerable Metro (Carrer Sepúlveda 185, 93-323-5227); and Salvation (Ronda San Pere 19-21, 93-318-0686). New stuff to look for this summer include a chiringuito (beach bar) out at Playa Mar Bella cleverly called Chiriguito Gay (oh, snap!).
And for getting right down to biz, BCN’s also second to none. I last counted nine bath houses, including the three-floor Condal (Carrer Espolsasacs 1, 93-317-6817), conveniently near the cathedral; the smaller but popular Casanova (Casanova 57, 93-323-7860) in the Gaixample; and a few blocks north the newish Barcelona (Carrer Tuset 1, 93-200-7716), not big but with a very cool little pool. Sex clubs have also been a growth industry – XT (Carrer Diputació 93) and Boyberry (Carrer Calàbria 96) are biggies. Finally, if you’re feeling generous, there are also several boybrothels: Nerón (Consell de Cent 185, 93-451-1028), American Boys (Ronda Universitat 23, 93-317-0047), and the newest, Korpus Delirio (Carrer Comte d’Urgell 150, 93-451-1594).
Okay, I’m super-biased, but I love this burg and want you to come (and cum) here – and if it’s warm, also to spare a couple of days for Sitges, one of the world’s top gay-popular beach towns, a 40-minute train ride south (more on that in an upcoming post; in the meantime, check out GaySitges.com). So check out Turisme Barcelona for general city info, and for the homo scoop Nois, InfoGai, Barcelona Rosa, and Casal Lambda. Trust me, you’ll have a ball (in more ways than one) in Barcelona…
Yours truly,
Dave